Installing a gauge cluster in a 92-95 Civic
One of the most popular modifications for any modern Civic is swapping gauge clusters. Whether it be for appearance, by swapping a JDM or non-OEM cluster. Or more practical reasons, by swapping in a cluster that has a tachometer. For example someone with a 5-speed Civic CX wants a tachometer. They can get a used Si or 5-speed EX gauge cluster (which come with a tach in the cluster) and just plug it right into place of the old cluster, that's all.
At any length, this is REALLY simple if you are using a cluster from another 92-95 Civic. I'm just putting this up here for the hell of it, plus I'm sure someone will ask how to do this.
I'm also going to put other little tidbits of info in here. Like how to "white out" the indicator lights, if you so desire. A good method for rolling the mileage on you new cluster to match your actual mileage. And how to make a JDM gauge roll over in miles, instead of kilometers.
Let's start at the beginning. I got a JDM cluster out of a Civic SiR, partially because it looks cooler then the USDM one, but also because the gas/temp gauge took a dump on my old cluster and it was cheaper (for me) to get the JDM cluster. If you don't know about the JDM cluster, the only noticeable differences between JDM and USDM are stock white faces, amber glow at night, kilometers instead of miles, higher redline on tach, and different looking indicator lights (i.e. Brake).
Now, the cluster I got had about 71000KM on it. My car has around 160000 miles on it which translates out to about 257440KM, the conversion is 1.609KM for every mile. So, I wanted to take my new cluster up to the appropriate KM reading. This can be done if you want to adjust the mileage for any new cluster you install. In order to do this you need to open up the casing.
*Disclaimer* - I assume no responsibility for illegal activities (i.e. illegally rolling back mileage), damage to cluster, or damage to the individual.
All I needed for any of this was:
Precision screwdriver set (or a philips and flat head screwdriver with small tips)
Two butter knifes (don't laugh, it makes opening the case easier)
Needle nose pliers (may or may not use)
Electric drill
Small gear (like one from an R/C car motor)
Drill bit or metal rod at a size appropriate for the attaching the gear.
Okay let's get started.
Put your newly acquired cluster bottom down, and take notice of the three tabs on top. This holds the plastic guard on.
CAREFULLY slide one knife above each outer tab, but under the white tab holder. Make sure not to force it or push up, you might break that white tab holder. Basically what you are doing is sticking the knives in there to hold the tabs down, so all you have to do is press down on the center tab and pull the front off.
Now that you can see you unprotected gauges let's remove the speedometer which houses that odometer we are after. Turn the cluster over and you will see three screws right behind the speedometer. Remove these and pull out.
After you remove the speedometer, remove the
circuit board on back.
![]()
If your gauge has a screw like the one shown
in the picture, remove it. Sometimes gauges like the USDM one in the
picture have a bit of melted plastic there instead of a screw. This
can be easily pulled off with some needle nose pliers.
![]()
Now carefully remove the white
"gearbox" (for lack of a better word), either by carefully prying
it up from the bottom or pulling it on that little tab with pliers.
![]()
After you remove that gearbox, you should see
some black gears for the odometer and some white gears for the tripometer.
![]()
The black gear is the one we are after.
Depending on which way you turn the gear, the mileage will either go up or
down. If you don't have many miles/KM to change you can do this by
hand. If you have a lot then I suggest one of two methods. One,
write down the current mileage on your car and the mileage on the new
cluster. Then keep the paper somewhere safe so if you ever sell the
car or need the mileage in the future you can subtract the original mileage
on the new cluster from the mileage at that point and time. And then
add the difference to the mileage from your old cluster. Method Two,
get a drill and roll the snot out of it until the mileage is where it should
be. This can still take a while if you have a lot of mileage to go
through, but it's better than doing it by hand.
![]()
Make sure the last digit on the odometer rolls to zero, and then clear out the tripometer. Put everything back together if this is all you want to do, and then skip to the last step. If you are interested in a couple little useless items then read on.
One option is getting your odometer to turn in miles instead of kilometers. This is done by simply replacing the circuit board and gearbox on the JDM speedometer with the circuit board and gearbox from your USDM speedometer. I don't recommend doing this because the needle on the speedometer would then be moving as MPH, which is a problem when you gauge face is in KM/H. It's easier just to do the KM to mile conversion.
"Americanize" your cluster. Japanese SiRs didn't have SRS or cruise control so those ports are missing from the back of the JDM cluster. So, I decided to move mine over from the USDM cluster. The JDM gauges won't fit properly in the USDM casing (they fit, just not well) so I had to pull the ports from the USDM casing. If you don't have cruise control, then you won't have a green plug or port. I don't believe there is any real reason for doing this (I don't think any codes will be thrown) but I did it for the hell of it.
Remove the speedometer and the gas/temp gauge from both casings.
Remove the green cruise control port by removing two screws in the back, and pull out
Remove the screw retaining the yellow SRS port, and pull out.
Install these ports in the JDM casing in the reverse order in which you removed them. You may need to cut off a bit of the plastic circuit that is blocking the green port. It's not connected to anything, so don't worry.
Put everything back the way you found it.
"White-out" your indicator lights (i.e. Check Engine, Seatbelt, signals). This is something I did back in pseudo ricer days (I never made it to full blown ricer), and I just got accustom to the look of it. This is something very easy to do, and can be done with either USDM or JDM cluster. I'm going to assume you already have the gauge cover off the cluster.
All you need to do is remove all the little
colored plastic coverings.
![]()
I would suggest leaving the blue covering for the high beam indicator as the bright white light can get very distracting if you drive with your high beams on for long periods.
If you use the bulbs that originally used for
these light (the bulbs with the black bases) then the indicator lights will
be a very dull white. I suggest using the bulbs that are used to
illuminate the backsides of the gauges (the bulbs with the brown bases) they
are brighter and have that blue covering that gives them the "Ultra
White" look, y0! ;o) I happened to have extras laying around from
an old cluster, so I was able to cannibalize that.
![]()
The brown based bulbs are just slightly bigger
and won't be a perfect fit, but they will fit.
![]()
That's all. Put the cover back on and you are good to go.
FINALLY installing the cluster. It's easy to break some plastic if you aren't gentle here.
Remove the hazard light button. It's best to use two flat
blade screw drivers with thin tips to carefully pry it up.
Remove the screw behind this button. Be careful not to
drop it.
Remove the two screws in the top curved portion of the cover.
Carefully pull at the top. The cover should pop right
off, but you may need to gently pry around the edges with a screw
driver. BTW, this pic was taken after I had already installed the JDM
cluster, hehe.
![]()
Unplug the clock and set the cover aside
Remove the four screws holding the old cluster in
place. Again, don't drop them. That's my old cluster.
Pull and unplug the old cluster. Plug the new cluster back in and put everything back. It's that easy. I can't believe I made a page this long about it.
Here is what the JDM cluster looks like a
night. One picture shows the white indicator lights. Neither picture
came out real well, but you get the general idea.